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An epacket can often offer you more information and pictures that are financially difficult in regular printed packets without raising both the price and the postage.

You are saving postage and time as epackets can be delivered almost instantly. Wonderful if you are overseas or have to worry about customs. However, the end result will only be as good as the attention you put into printing it out.  While regular, inexpensive copy paper is good enough for emails, recipes and other text content, good images require a little bit more. 

Purchase a good quality premium or Bright White paper for the brand of printer you have. [e.g. HP- HP Premium paper, Canon - Canon Paper] Matching the paper to your printer brand usually produces better results. It doesn't have to be photo paper. Make sure you have enough ink in your cartridge before you start.  Learn how to print only the pages you want. Don't just automatically hit print. Take a moment to look through each page on a print preview and decide if you need them all, then make your selection.

Printed pages are not usually waterproof so a little extra care is required here also. Use plastic sheet protectors. If your monitor is in your studio you may not need to print it out at all. Copyright applies to epackets as much as printed works, so please respect the artist and don't be tempted to share your epacket.

  • I like to test my color mixes on a sample of the background color, mostly to see the value. Value and intensity are relative to what they are placed next to, and that might be another flower and not background color - keep this in mind. However, when you use a rolled background, the paint usually has to be poured on to something before rolling the brush in the paint. Try using a paper or styrafoam plate and then when it dries, you have a sample of your background color ready to use.(Thanks to Helen for this tip.)
  • If you're having trouble blending, make sure that you have enough paint to blend with. Often, you can wipe too much paint off in wiping the brush frequently on a paper towel, and you don't have enough paint left on the surface to blend.
  • Try not to paint with a paper towel in your hand. Fold it and place on the table besides you. Wipe your brush on the inside, just lifting up the top fold.This keeps the outside of the paper towel clean and thus your hands clean also. This will help to keep your brushes in good shape too..
  • If you have too much paint, you can apply a single fold of facial tissue to lift the excess paint off. Carefully place the tissue on the painting and gently mop, using the side of a big mop brush. Do not pounce.
  • If you are having trouble with stripes when you're blending, try switching to a bigger brush. Honestly, it works. Do not resort to a mop to blend. Often a mop will just lift paint. Use a larger flat or larger filbert to blend and use the mop to remove brush strokes. Think of your mop as a brush to skim the surface with.

A computer can be used in many ways. I particularly like Ulead's PhotoImpact, but you can use Adobe Photodeluxe, MGI Photosuite or any other graphic manipulation program.

  • Scan your painting in and remove the color to check your values. Often we see just color and not the value. Stripes in your blending will also show up more. Print it out in Black & White.
  • To see if you have effectively established a center of interest area, try reducing your painting to a really small size. What do you see first?
  • Also, still on the center of interest area, gradually darken your painting. What is the last area to disappear?
  • Try reversing the picture. Try reversing and turning it upside down. Just another way of looking at it.